EL PERU Y SUS ORQUIDEAS II !!!!

[nicoli]

Queridos compatriotas, con el permiso de uds., he abierto este nuevo post para dar por iniciado una nueva etapa en nuestro Salón peruano.

Esperemos que este Salón sea todo lo productivo, respetuoso, integrador, amigable que sé ,es lo que esperamos todos nosotros.

Reciban esta cordial invitación, amigos del Perú y del mundo!..acompáñenos, amigos de buena voluntad y brindemos por esta nueva etapa que se ve prometedora...acumulemos experiencia, conocimientos...pero también amigos!

BIENVENIDOS Y BRINDEMOS, COMO DIJISTE NORMAN, CON UN BUEN MAZATO Y UN DELICIOSO JUANES, EN HONOR DE SAN MARTIN, UNA DE LAS REGIONES CON LAS MAS BELLAS ORQUIDEAS DE NUESTRO PAIS.!





BIENVENIDOS AMIGOS

[arti-lop]

Les deseo lo mejor para este post, y aprender de sus bellezas, así como de sus diversos cultivos.

[MARILYS VIVAS]

TE FELICITO POR LA INCIATIVA NICOLI....LE PROPONGO A JESUS QUE EL OTRO POST....LO ELIMINE YA QUE EN ESTE NO HAY (SOBRE TODO AL FINAL) MAYOR COSA DE IMPORTANCIA (UNO QUE OTRO INSULTO )....LES DESEO LA MAYOR DE LAS SUERTE EN ESTA NUEVA ETAPA Y QUE LA UNION (SOBRE TODO DE USTEDES) SEA LO QUE IMPERE ADEMAS DEL DESEO DE APRENDER SOBRE ORQUIS

[ESTRACA]

Hola!
Les felicito por su nuevo salon. Espero, que sea mas amistoso y productivo, que el otro, ya olvidado.

Pero mas que por las orquideas, entro por el brindis de Nicoli - BUEN MAZATO Y UN DELICIOSO JUANES - voy a tomar los dos, esperando, que alguien me explique : de que, como, cuando, porque.... se hace.
Saludos a todos, Miro.

[Rodolfo Hernandez]

Felicidades de Nuevo Amigos Peruanos, espero participar en este.

Ahora sin animales en el foro de orquis ni personajes sacados de la ciencia ficción.

Espero que no haya un Tercero y que se queden con este.

Vamos que quiero aprender mucho acerca de las minis y de muchas más

[CarmenBC]

Bueno, aquí hay un dicho que dice: "a la tercera va la vencida" Esperemos que haya paz definitivamente y todos aprendamos de nuestras experiencias y de las ajenas en cuanto al cultivo de nuestras queridas plantas, y nada más.


Fuera peleas, y por favor, que nadie ofenda a nadie, y si a alguien le es inevitable discutir algunas diferencias, ya se dijo, para eso está el correo privado Respetemos y seamos respetados.


¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡BIENVENIDOS TODOS DE NUEVO!!!!!!!!!!!

[lacanaria]

¡¡¡¡¡¡Felicidades!!!!

[Lourdes Sió]

Pues sí borrón y cuenta nueva, a ver si tenemos la fiesta en paz.

¿Sabeis que Mª Julia Freuler está escribiendo un libro sobre las orquídias del Perú?.No sé si ya lo ha publicado.

Estubo este mes pasado en Madrid y dió una conferencia sobre las orquideas Peru, lamentablemente no se pudo hacer en Barcelona.

Yo tengo un libro precioso regalo de Inés, sobre las orquídeas del Machu Pichu.

También aparece en el boletin de Marzo del CAO de MAdrid, un articulo precioso sobre la Cattleya Rex


Un saludo

Lourdes

[nicoli]

ArtiLop, Marilys, Strakamiro, Rodolfo, Carmen, La Canaria!...

Bienvenidos y mil gracias por sus buenos augurios!....

Straka, el mazato es una bebida hecha a base de yuca...no te digo el proceso porque tal véz no te guste , lo que si te va a gustar es el resultado final, una exquisita y refrescante bebida. El juanes es un potaje común en todo el oriente peruano, hecho a base de arroz y con carnes de aves, gallina sobre todo. Si bienes pronto trata de que sea en las fiestas de San Juan, verás que bién las pasas!

Saludos amigos!!!!

[MARCOS GARCIA]

que bueno que haya sido todo un exito la primera parte les deseo lo mejor en esta segunda... felicidades...

[nicoli]

Lourdes!..

Bienvenida también!...

Que genial que haya gente abocada al estudio de nuestras orquis. Espero tener un día su libro en mis manos.

La Cattleya Rex siempre será la reina indiscutible de nuestras orquideas...aunque la Phragmipedium Peruvianum no se deja y ya le quiere pisar los talones...irrespetuosa ella!

Saludos

[nicoli]

Marcos!

Bienvenido, si, relmente aprendimos mucho la primera parte....realmente aqui hay SRS. cultivadores de los que he aprendido muchísimo...digo, casi todo lo que sé se los debo a ellos...pero lo que más admiro de estos es su amistad, generosidad y humildad.

Saludos y bienvenido!...

[nicoli]

Rescatando algo buenísimo del Salón anterior...Norman...no sabía que la Ida Locusta era endémica de Huánuco....sueño con viajar a esos lares, ya que mi padre es originario de allí. Si un día logro ir las buscaré y veran sus fotos en su ambiente natural...porque es una preciosa orquidea.



Saludos!

[normancash]

Pues nicoli, bebamos un masato y de paso gracias por la invitacion para conocer tu pais.

Hablame de esa zona, donde crece la locusta.

He conseguido una Pagina de Cultura, solo quiero constribuir. Saludos y un abrazo a todos mis amigos peruanos.

Ida locusta (Rchb. f.) Ryan & Oakeley

AKA: Lycaste locusta Rchb. f.

ORIGIN/HABITAT: Peru. This terrestrial, epiphytic, or lithophytic orchid
has been found at various locations in the departments of Apurimac, Cuzco,
and Huánuco at 6550-9850 ft. (2000-3000 m).

CLIMATE: Station #84686, Cuzco, Peru, Lat. 13.4S, Long. 72.0W, at 10,867
ft. (3312 m). Temperatures are calculated for an elevation of 8200 ft.
(2500 m), resulting in probable extremes of 95F (35C) and 25F (-4C).

N/HEMISPHERE JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
F AVG MAX 79 79 80 81 82 80 77 78 79 80 79 78
F AVG MIN 40 43 49 52 52 53 54 54 53 49 44 42
DIURNAL RANGE 39 36 31 29 30 27 23 24 26 31 35 36
RAIN/INCHES 0.2 0.4 1.0 2.6 3.0 5.4 6.4 5.9 4.3 2.0 0.6 0.2
HUMIDITY/% 57 70 68 68 73 77 76 78 76 75 68 58
BLOOM SEASON * * * *** ** * *
DAYS CLR @ 7AM 20 19 10 8 7 4 2 2 4 7 15 19
DAYS CLR @ 1PM 22 17 9 5 4 2 1 1 2 7 14 23
RAIN/MM 5 10 25 66 76 137 163 150 109 51 15 5
C AVG MAX 26.1 26.1 26.7 27.2 27.8 26.8 25.1 25.6 26.1 26.7 26.1 25.6
C AVG MIN 4.4 6.0 9.3 11.0 11.0 11.6 12.1 12.1 11.6 9.3 6.6 5.4
DIURNAL RANGE 21.7 20.1 17.4 16.2 16.8 15.2 13.0 13.5 14.5 17.4 19.5 20.2
S/HEMISPHERE JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN

Cultural Recommendations:

LIGHT: 2000-3000 fc. Light should be filtered or diffused, and plants
should not be exposed to direct midday sun. Strong air movement should be
provided at all times.

TEMPERATURES: Summer days average 77-80F (25-27C), and nights average
53-54F (12C), with a diurnal range of 23-27F (13-15C). The warmest
temperatures occur in late spring before the start of the rainy season.

HUMIDITY: 70-80% most of the year, dropping to 55-60% for 2-3 months
during the winter dry season.

WATER: Rainfall is moderate to heavy from late spring into autumn, but
rainfall is greatly reduced for 4-5 months in autumn and winter.
Cultivated plants should be kept evenly moist while actively growing, but
water should be gradually reduced in autumn.

FERTILIZER: 1/4-1/2 recommended strength, applied weekly when plants are
actively growing. Many growers prefer to use a balanced fertilizer
throughout the year; but others use a high-nitrogen fertilizer from spring
to midsummer, then switch to one high in phosphates in late summer and
autumn.

REST PERIOD: Winter days average 78-79F (26C), and nights average 40-43F
(4-6C), with a diurnal range of 36-39F (20-22C). Because of the range in
habitat elevation, plants will probably adapt to conditions some 5-6F (3C)
warmer or cooler than indicated in the preceding climate table. In the
habitat, rainfall is low in winter, but the extremely wide diurnal
temperature range indicates that heavy dew is common, even when humidity
is low. Therefore, a large amount of moisture not reflected in the
rainfall averages is available to plants. Water should be reduced somewhat
for cultivated plants in winter, but they should not be allowed to dry out
completely. If plants are grown under cold conditions, they should be kept
somewhat drier than if grown with warmer nights. Fertilizer should be
reduced until water is increased in spring.

GROWING MEDIA: Plants usually are grown in pots or baskets filled with an
open, fast draining medium that retains moisture without becoming stale or
soggy. Growers recommend undersized, rather shallow containers with room
for only 1-2 year's growth are best because the medium in larger pots
stays wet for too long after watering so the roots cannot dry fast enough
and easily develop root rot. Hawkes (1965) reported that most Lycaste
species grow best when potted in straight shredded tree-fern fiber. More
recently, however, some growers use fine-grade fir bark mixed with perlite
and charcoal, while others prefer a mixture of equal volumes of shredded
or chopped sphagnum, sedge peat, and perlite. These plants may also be
grown mounted on tree-fern or cork slabs, but humidity must be high and
plants need at least daily watering during the growing season. Mounted
plants may need several waterings a day during extremely hot, dry weather.
Providing enough summer moisture for mounted plants is difficult for some
growers, so plants are usually are grown in pots or baskets. Repotting or
dividing should be done before the medium breaks down or when the plant
starts to overgrow its container. In most instances, this occurs about
every 2 years. Plants should be repotted after a new growth starts and
roots are starting to grow. This is when the plant is best able to become
reestablished in the shortest possible time with the least amount of
stress.

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES: The bloom season shown in the climate table is based
on cultivation records.

Plant and Flower Information:

PLANT SIZE AND TYPE: A rather large terrestrial, epiphyte, or lithophytic
plant with growths to 26 in. (65 cm) tall.

PSEUDOBULB/STEM: 2.6-4.0 in. (6-10 cm) long by up to 2.4 in. (6 cm) wide
and 1.4 in. (3.5 cm) thick. The clustered, egg-shaped or oblong to
egg-shaped pseudobulbs are laterally compressed with rather sharp edges
and are longitudinally ridged and wrinkled, becoming more deeply so with
age. When young, the pseudobulb is clothed by a pair of leaflike bracts,
but these have dried and lost their leaflets by the time of flowering.
There are 2 small but distinct spines at the apex of the pseudobulb that
show after the leaves have fallen.

LEAVES: Up to 31 in. (80 cm) long, but usually shorter, by 2.4-3.1 in.
(6-8 cm) wide. One to three spreading to arching leaves are carried at the
apex of the pseudobulb. They are oblong-elliptic (often narrowly so),
sharply pointed at the tip, wedge shaped below, and taper into an
inconspicuous, more or less petiolelike stem at the base that is channeled
and up to 3 in. (8 cm) long according to Schweinfurth (1958-1961) and 7-8
in. (18-20 cm) long according to Fowlie (1970). Leaves are somewhat
wrinkled with longitudinal, fanlike folds and have 3-7 conspicuous nerves
on the lower side. The leaves usually are deciduous after flowering is
completed.

INFLORESCENCE: Up to 11 in. (29 cm) long. One or two more or less erect
scapes are produced from the base of a pseudobulb that matured the
previous year but still bears its leaves. They usually form just as the
flush of new growth is starting. There are several widely spaced, somewhat
close-fitting, concave, triangular to funnel-shaped bracts on the scape
that are dry, brownish in color, and measure about 1.6 in. (4 cm) long by
0.3 in. 0.8 cm) wide when expanded. The floral bract is similar to the
lower bracts but is larger, measuring 1.8-2.0 in. (4.5-5.0 cm) long by up
to 0.7 in. (1.8 cm) wide if expanded. The flower is carried on a
pedicellate ovary that is usually 1.0-1.4 in. (2.5-3.5 cm) long by 0.2 in.
(0.5 cm) in diameter.

FLOWERS: 1 per inflorescence. The moderately large, more or less nodding,
somewhat cupped, rather fleshy blossoms are faintly apple-scented and
measure up to 3 in. (8 cm) across the lateral sepals. They are dark green
but often have a white column and a white margin on the midlobe of the
lip. The dorsal sepal is egg-shaped to elliptic or lanceolate-elliptic,
has a sharply pointed tip, is concave, measures up to 2.2 in. (5.5 cm)
long by about 1 in. (2.5 cm) wide near the base, and is held in a
hoodlike, forward-pointing position over the column, flaring upward only
near the tip. The lateral sepals are egg-shaped to oblong or
elliptical-lanceolate, sharply pointed, somewhat sickle-shaped, about 2
in. (5 cm) long by 1 in. (2.5 cm) wide near the base. They are joined with
the column foot at the base to form a narrowly conical mentum that is
about 0.6 in. (1.6 cm) long. They project obliquely forward from the base
to above the middle and then flare rather sharply outward so that the
apical portion is held in a forward-facing position. The
oblong-oblanceolate peals are sharply or somewhat sharply pointed, are
1.6-2.0 in. (4-5 cm) long by about 0.6 in. (1.5 cm) wide, and are held in
obliquely forward-pointing positions at the base but curve outward sharply
near the middle. The recurved lip is sharply 3-lobed above the middle,
with the lower portion tubular to concave. It is wedge-shaped below, and
when expanded is elliptic-obovate in outline. The lip measures up to 2 in.
(5 cm) long and 0.9 in. (2.2 cm) wide across the expanded midlobe. The
free portion of the lateral lobes is small, obliquely egg-shaped, and may
be sharply or bluntly pointed. The much larger midlobe is oblong to
egg-shaped, rounded to truncate and minutely notched in front, is about
0.7 in. (1.8 cm) long by 0.6 in. (1.5 cm) wide, and is prominently hairy
along the lateral margins with distinct, 0.08 in. (0.2 cm) long whitish
hairs which contrast strongly with the dark green color of the lip. The
callus extends 0.9 in. (2.3-2.4 cm) from the base of the lip and is about
0.1 in. (0.3 cm) wide. its lateral margins are longitudinally erect to
form a set of almost parallel ridges at the base but are reduced in height
and disappear toward the apex of the callus. On the midlobe, the callus is
like a broad tongue and is grooved longitudinally, notched at the apex,
and is thickened and projecting. The large column is up to 1.6 in. (4 cm)
long by 0.2 in. (0.5 cm) wide at the base, arching gently over the base of
the lip.

HYBRIDIZING NOTES: Chromosome count 2n = 48.

[ESTRACA]

Gracias Nicoli por la explicacion.
Aunque habria que revelar la receta secreta completa. supongo, que se utiliza la tecnologia "masticar". Es, porque si me quedare sin probar el trago (ya que hay muchos invitados), como me sucedio en otra cantina, para poder hacer mi propia bebida.
Lo de otra Cantina voy a reclamar ahi, para que no se enojen.
Miro.